Maine Master Gardener News
May 2008
Time to Start an Asparagus Bed!
Article by:
David Handley and Mark Hutton,
Vegetable and Small Fruit Specialist,
University of Maine Cooperative Extension, Highmoor Farm
Asparagus is often the first vegetable that we can harvest from the garden in the spring, and the sight of those tender spears emerging from the soil fills a gardener with hopeful anticipation for the coming season.
An asparagus planting is usually established from fleshy crowns bought from a nursery supplier or local garden center. Plants can also be started from seed, which should be planted into peat pots and started indoors about six weeks prior to moving outdoors. It is important to select varieties that are disease resistant and will perform well under Maine’s challenging climate. Varieties we presently recommend include Mary Washington Improved, Jersey King, Jersey Knight, Guelph Millennium, and for those wanting spears with a unique color, Purple Passion.
The site for an asparagus planting must have a well drained soil, because plants in wet soils will succumb to root rot problems. A soil test should be carried out well before planting and any needed amendments should be worked in during the fall or spring prior to planting. Perennial weeds such as quack grass must be eliminated prior to planting, or they will quickly overcome the crop. Asparagus should be planted on the west or north edge of a garden to prevent the ferns from shading other crops and interfering with tillage of the rest the garden. Plant asparagus in the spring after the danger of hard frost has past. How much should you plant? Figure that each crown should produce about ½ pound of spears per year once fully established.
To plant dormant crowns, dig a furrow two to three inches wide and about four to six inches deep. Phosphorus can be helpful in plant establishment. If your soil tends to be low in phosphorus, apply about two pounds of super phosphate (0-20-0) per 50 feet of row along the bottom of the furrow (bone meal can also be used, but it tends to attract skunks). Space the crowns about 18 inches apart at the bottom of the furrow. If planting more than one row, space them at least four feet apart to allow the ferns plenty of growing space. After planting, fill the furrow back up to the original soil level, but do not compact or press the soil over the buried crowns, as this may damage the buds and will delay spear emergence. Keep the soil moist. You should start to see spears emerging in one to two weeks. Do not harvest the spears during the planting year. The spears will elongate and form “ferns”, which will support and promote the growth of the roots. The plants can be mulched lightly during the growing season to help reduce weed pressure with wood shavings, pine
needles or the like.
The ferns will die off in the fall and should be mowed off either late in the fall or early in the spring, prior to the emergence of new spears. Waiting until spring may improve winter survival. During the second year spears may be harvested as they emerge over a two to three week period.
Snap the shoots off when they are seven to nine inches high and before the tips start to loosen. The bed should be harvested every three to four days. After three weeks stop harvesting and allow the shoots to develop ferns to build up the plants for next year. Fertilizer should be applied after the last harvest. About ½ pound of ammonium nitrate or 1 ½ pounds of 10-10-10 should be applied over 50 feet of row. An application of compost over the plants can also be used as a fertilizer. Check the product container to determine its nutrient levels.
Late frost or cutworms can cause the spears to “crook” after they emerge, and asparagus beetles and their larvae may be found feeding on the ferns during the season. In the latter case, handpicking may provide an effective means of control on a small planting, but insecticides may be warranted on larger plantings. There are both organic and synthetic insecticide options available, but be sure to check product labels for rates, timing and safety precautions.
And that’s it! Every year thereafter the first shoots to emerge in the spring should be harvested for a three to four week period, then allow the ferns to grow and mow them off the following spring. Enjoy your asparagus planting and be sure to share with you friends. They’ll be much more tolerant of your excess zucchini in the summer.
A Mediterranean Garden Comes to Mid-Coast Maine
Article by:
Paul Fenton, Master Gardener 08
In the fall of 2006 my wife and I spent three weeks in Italy with another couple. While the entire trip was wonderful, the first week in a rented Tuscan villa was the best. Besides the fantastic views, rich regional history and excellent wines (Chianti, Montepulciano, Montalcino), the four of us agreed that the foods of Tuscany were quite remarkable. Since I was more familiar with the food of Southern Italy, Tuscany was a pleasant surprise.
This past January, a friend of mine from Montana led me to a website (www.growitalian.com, Winchester, Massachusetts) that sells vegetable seeds from Italy. Still missing the awesome flavors of Tuscany, I sent for a variety of seeds. By March, my memories of Tuscany and these recently received seeds converged.
In November of 2007, I completed the class portion of the Knox-Lincoln and Waldo Master Gardener Volunteer program and decided to donate my time at The Morris Farm in Wiscasset. At our first planning meeting with the Morris Farm MG team, mention of a unique vegetable called the cardoon (and other Italian vegetables) made an idea click in my head.
It was then that I knew that I wanted to plant a Mediterranean demonstration garden to highlight some of the wonderful vegetables that I had encountered in Tuscany. As we continued our meeting, it was clear that this project will compliment the rest of the large garden.
The Mediterranean garden will feature Borlotti Lamon pole beans (used in pasta fagiolo), five kinds of Radicchio, three types of fennel (braised fennel with Parmesan cheese is my favorite), fava beans Super- simonia (also great braised or cooked with olive oil and fresh sage), rucola (called arugula in the USA), Tuscan kale, cardoons (try them in herbed tomato sauce), egg plant Vittorio, Italian parsley Gigante, artichokes (yes, artichokes in Maine!) and Romanesco zucchini.
Editor’s Note: Paul Fenton lives in Bath, where he’ll grow the same vegetables in his home garden along with his large collection of heirloom dahlias. The Master Gardeners at Morris Farm have been volunteering since 2004. Each year the gardens serve the community by demonstrating organic gardening methods, growing food for the needy and enhancing the children’s educational programs at the Morris Farm and nearby schools.
Community Gardens:
Bringing Out the Best in Gardening
Article by:
Amy Witt, Home Horticulturist,
University of Maine Cooperative Extension
According to the American Community Gardening Association, a community garden is “any piece of land gardened by a group of people.” Community gardens promote healthy communities. It is currently estimated that there are 10,000 community gardens within U.S. cities (Urban Community Gardens). Wouldn’t it be great to have a community garden in every community throughout the United States? Think how healthy the U.S. would be! Let’s do our part by striving to have community gardens across the state of Maine. Read on to find out how some of your fellow Master Gardeners are contributing to this effort.
There are numerous benefits associated with gardening including growing nutritious food and beautiful flowers, physical exercise, education, new friendships, nourishing the soul and rejuvenating the spirit. In addition, community gardens provide the benefits of:
- serving as a catalyst for neighborhood and community development
- beautifying neighborhoods
- conserving resources
- providing opportunities for intergenerational and cross cultural connections
- preserving green space
American Community
Gardening Association
The greater Portland area is fortunate to have several community garden programs. I interviewed seven Master Gardener Volunteers who either helped establish or have a role in maintaining five of these programs. The gardens are located in Cape Elizabeth (Judy Simonds & Nancy Miles), Yarmouth (Amy Sinclair & Marjorie Stone), Long Island (Penny
Murley) and Portland (one is in the Bayside neighborhood (John Affleck) and the others are part of the City of Portland’s community gardening program (Joan Perkins) and are scattered throughout the city).
Whether in an urban, suburban or rural setting; located at a school, in a neighborhood, the inner city or an institution, community gardens help build communities. Successful community gardens can be established anywhere, all that’s needed is a vision, a plan, land, permission from the town or property owner, support from local organizations/businesses, dedicated people, donations for supplies, an advisory group, and gardeners.
Once the idea is formed, the next step is to determine if there is interest amongst the residents. This can be done informally by polling people, putting an article in the community newspaper, and putting flyers up around town. After confirming interest, form an advisory committee to develop a plan, and then propose the idea to the town.
When the town has given its approval, identify your resources; solicit funding, donations and gardeners. In many instances it takes the sponsorship from one organization or local nursery/garden center to validate the garden and generate support and commitment from other local organizations/businesses, and the residents. For example, once the organizers of the Long Island community garden received funding from the Kay E. Dopp Foundation (via the Maine Community Foundation); several local groups (including the kids at the Long Island School) also donated money and supplies to the effort. The support of Estabrook’s greenhouse in Yarmouth has also had a huge influence on the success of the gardens in Yarmouth.
With the exception of the Bayside garden, the members of each garden pay a rental fee for their plot(s). The average rent is $25/season, which pays for compost, mulch, loam, organic pest control, tools and other materials. The number of plots and renters in each garden varies. Yarmouth is the largest and has 120 plots and 68 renters. Bayside has 25 plots and 25 renters and the other gardens fall in somewhere in between. The renters (except with the City of Portland’s gardens) are also asked to contribute to the garden throughout the
season by participating in fall and spring clean-up days, maintaining and gleaning in the Plant a Row for the Hungry (PAR) gardens, installing, building and maintaining new raised beds and so on.
The gardens are much more than a place to grow food. They have become gathering places to meet and make friends, share information, celebrate, help out neighbors in need, grow new gardeners, and build stronger communities. All the gardens host various workdays, educational events and social gatherings (Long Island has an annual garden party and Yarmouth, Long Island, Bayside and Portland all host a Harvest Supper.) Four of the five gardens also participate in the PAR program.
While there are many similarities, each garden is unique in its own way. For example, the garden in Yarmouth has a children’s program. This program offers hands-on gardening education to kids between the ages of 4 and 10 and an opportunity for the kids to have their own 4’x6’ plot to tend with their family.
The program in the City of Portland is involved with the Great Sunflower Project. The gardeners are given heirloom sunflower seeds. By watching and recording the bees on the sunflowers in their garden plot, they are helping the researchers understand the challenges the bees are currently facing.
If you are interested in starting a community garden and helping Maine build healthy communities, there are two excellent resources to help get you started - the American Community Gardening Association www.communitygarden.org and Urban Community Gardens www.mindspring.com/~communitygardens/ index.html.
The University of Maine Cooperative Extension publication #4300 Organizing Your Community Garden also has some good tips. This publication is available online at www.umext.maine.edu
Judy, Nancy, Penny, Amy, Marjorie, John and Joan would also be happy to talk with you. Just let me know and I will put you in touch with them.
Amy Witt can be reached at 1-800-287-1471 or awitt@umext.maine.edu
Drip Irrigation Made Easy
Thursday evening, June 19, 6:30 – 8:30 PM
Laudholm Farm at Wells Reserve
Cost: $5.00 checks payable to “YCEA”
May be paid in person at the workshop
Pre-registration is Required by calling UMaine
Extension at 324-2814 or 1-800-287-1535
Drip irrigation will help you grow a more abundant and healthier garden and save you time in the process. Drip irrigation saves water by putting it only where you need it, in the correct amounts and will save you time and energy efficiency. Your plants stay healthier by keeping your plant foliage dry and thereby reducing incidence of foliar diseases. Drip systems are easy to install and parts are inexpensive. Once you have a system in place you can easily adapt it to the changing shape and configuration of your garden and it will last for years with minimum upkeep.
Join workshop leaders Sharon England, University of Maine Cooperative Extension Master Gardener Volunteer, and Frank Wertheim, UMaine Extension Educator, for this demonstration type workshop as we install a system in the corn patch garden at Laudholm Farm at Wells Reserve. We will provide resources on “how to” and where to find the right product for your garden.
A Hands-on
Backyard Composting
Demonstration
Marjorie Peronto, Extension Educator
Saturday, June 7th, 2008
9:00 am—10:30 am
(Rain date: June 14th)
Location: Woodlawn Museum,
The Blackhouse, Route 172,
Surry Road, Ellsworth
Cost: Donations to Woodlawn
FMI: 667-8671
Penobscot County Master Gardeners’
Demonstration Garden At Rogers Farm Welcomes you!
Located at: 914 Bennoch Road, Stillwater
2008 Summer Programs
When Iris Eyes are Smiling
Iris varieties bred and grown in Maine.
June 17th 6:00 p.m.
The Good, the Bad and the Bugly
Solutions for insects and
diseases plaguing your yard.
The panel will help you find a
solution.
July 15th 6:00 p.m.
I Never Saw a Purple Carrot
Exciting new veggie varieties and other vegetable gardening tips.
August 12th 6:00 p.m.
Master Gardener Course
Offered in Eastport
This Summer
Applications are now being accepted for a Master Gardener training
for Washington County’s Eastport this summer.
Dates: (5) Wednesdays
Beginning July 30th—August 27th
9 AM—3:30 PM
The focus will be
Fruit and Vegetable Production.
If you know of someone that might want to take this course, have them e-mail Marjorie at
mperonto@umext.maine.edu or call the Extension Office at
1-800-287-1479
or e-mail Tara at twood@umext.maine.edu
2008 MG Re-enrollments
If you have not sent in your Master Gardener Re-enrollments (orange or blue form listing projects) this could be your last MG Newsletter.
Please mail your form to Sue if you wish to continue as a MG Volunteer.
Or you can e-mail sbaez@umext.maine.edu
Reminder
You can report those Master Gardener Volunteer hours on-line at
http://www.umaine.edu/umext/hancock/MasterGardener/mg.htm
Please only report hours monthly
Rhoades Park Butterfly Garden
in Southwest Harbor
will be offering free Gardening Classes on Thursdays, Now thru June 12th
Annual Butterfly Release
will be held on Thursday, July 31st
There is a fee for this event
For more information on either of these events, please contact Ann Judd at
244-5497 or e-mail ann.judd@gmail.com
Extension Office Ornamental Landscape workdays
Jennifer Crain, Project Leader
In 2008, we plan to do a major overhaul of the existing beds to demonstrate ecologically sound landscape practices and highlight the use of native materials in landscape design. To accomplish this, we will work according to a long term plan to expand the current native plantings in front of the building and transplant non-natives to appropriate beds on the extension property. We will create a new planting bed for ornamentals and stock plants for 2009 plant sale, clean up and maintain existing landscape beds for maximum plant health and aesthetics in accordance with IPM techniques, and maintain working compost bins to serve as demonstration bins for the public. If you would like to help with this volunteer project, please contact Jennifer at jcrain@greenwebdesign.com or 266-8171
May 16 & 17 prep for hardscaping, amend beds, transplant
May 23 & 24 transplant, plant natives, hardscaping
June 20 Summer Solstice workday & Cookout
July 25 & 26 Mid-summer workday
Newsletter created by:
Hancock County Cooperative Extension
63 Boggy Brook Road, Ellsworth, ME 04605
1-800-287-1479 or 667-8212 Fax: 667-2003
Editors:
Marjorie Peronto, Extension Educator
Sue Baez, Administrative Assistant II