University of Maine
The Maine Garlic Project
Garlic is produced for sale in every county in Maine. Much of the management information used to produce the crop ranges from myths to reality. Much of the management information is dated and has not been generated under Maine conditions. Despite this, respectable garlic crops are produced. Better organization and quality of garlic production data can only improve this.
Maine Garlic Project September Newsletter
Maine Garlic Project October Newsletter
Maine Garlic Project November Newsletter
Maine Garlic Project December Newsletter
Maine Garlic Project November Newsletter
Maine Garlic Project December NewsletterMaine Garlic Project January Newsletter
Maine Garlic Project February Newsletter
Maine Garlic Project March NewsletterMaine Garlic Project April Newsletter
Maine Garlic Project May Newsletter
Maine Garlic Project June Newsletter
Maine Garlic Project July Newsletter
Maine Garlic Project August Newsletter
Maine Garlic Project August NewsletterMaine Garlic Project September 2011 Newsletter
Maine Garlic Project Final Newsletter
You Tube video of growing garlic
You Tube video of removing garlic scapes
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Embellisia Skin Spot of Garlic (new)
Soils and Fertility
Garlic will grow in almost any well-drained, friable soil, preferably with good organic matter content and a loose growing bed. Ideal pH is between 6 and 7. Garlic is a heavy feeder, requiring more than 100 pounds per acre of N P and K. This is about five tablespoons of 10-10-10 or organic equivalent for one bulb with six cloves. Incorporate the fertilizer before planting. Additional N in the spring could be added as shoots emerge and again about two to three weeks later. Add about a quarter of the preplanting rate at each spring fertilizing.
Separate individual cloves from the bulb up to two days before planting. Cloves separated for longer than two days tend to dry out. Plant the cloves with the pointed side up so the point is covered with two to four inches of soil. Planting dates range from end of September to the second week of October, from north to south, or about two weeks after the first hard freeze. Plant the cloves in a row 6 inches apart and 8 inch spacing between rows.
About four weeks after planting, cover garlic row with a two-inch to four-inch layer of mulch. After the threat of hard freezes is past, mulch may be removed from struggling plants. Replacing this mulch and leaving the plants mulched minimizes weeds and conserves moisture.
Scapes (flower stalks with small aerial bulbels) may be removed as they straighten out.
Harvesting and Curing
Harvest dates range from late June to early August, from south to north. Harvest when half or slightly more than half of the leaves remain green. The bulbs should fully be developed and well formed with a tight outer skin. Dig the garlic with a garden fork with the shoots and roots still attached. Dry the harvested plants in a dark and well-ventilated area. After about three to four weeks of curing, the shoots and roots should have dried down. Cut the tops to about one-half to one inch above the main bulb and trim the roots close to the base of the bulb.
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2011 University of Maine
Last Modified: 10/17/11
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